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Champagne-Ardenne Travel Guide

Traditional stone houses in the Champagne countryside (© fotoVoyager | iStockphoto.com)
Traditional stone houses in the Champagne countryside.

Introduction

Champagne-Ardenne is one of France's 27 administrative regions, created roughly around the boundaries of the old County of Champagne. Famous worldwide for its sparkling wine, the Champagne is predominantly a rural and agricultural region. Though relatively large (almost as big as Belgium), it only has 1.3 million inhabitants and is the second most sparsely populated continental French region after Limousin. Its GDP per capita is nevertheless the third highest in northern France after the Île-de-France and Alsace.

Reims, the relatively small regional capital, is the only must-see destination in Champagne. It is in this Gallo-Roman city that one of France's first bishoprics was established, and in its cathedral that the Kings of France were crowned, from Clovis to Louis XVI. Apart from its Gothic splendour, Reims is also the best place to sample the precious local liquid gold: champagne wine.

Troyes is one of France's best-preserved historical town, possessing a quaint assortment of 16th-century timber-framed houses.

The border towns of Sedan and Givet originally belonged to the Southern Netherlands (modern Belgium), but were later annexed to France (in 1641 and 1680, respectively). They are both dominated by mighty citadels.

Famous people from Champagne-Ardenne include (chronologically): Louis XIV's finance minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert, philosopher and encyclopedist Denis Diderot, revolutionary politician Georges Jacques Danton, poet Arthur Rimbaud, the creator of Astérix comic books Albert Uderzo, and the journalist and writer Patrick Poivre d'Arvor.


History

The Champagne countryside had a relatively uneventful history, bar two key battles that remain deeply imprinted in the national French psyche today. On 20 September 1792, the French Revolutionary forces won their first victory at the Battle of Valmy, defeating the Austro-Prussian troops sent to Paris to protect the monarchy. The victory provided a euphory in France that emboldened the newly-assembled National Convention to formally declare the end of monarchy and the establishment of the First French Republic.

The Second French Empire collapsed in the aftermath of the Battle of Sedan, on 1 September 1870, which resulted in the capture of Emperor Napoleon III and large numbers of his troops by the Prussians. It also effectively ended the Franco-Prussian War and led to the Proclamation of the German Empire a few months later at the Palace of Versailles.


Cuisine

Champagne-Ardenne’s cuisine is firmly rooted in its cool northern climate and fertile soils. Potatoes, cabbage, asparagus, rhubarb, shallots, wild mushrooms and sugar beets are major crops throughout the region. The Aube département is France’s second-largest cabbage producer, and the harvest is often transformed into sauerkraut. Choucroute de Brienne stews this sauerkraut in Champagne and chicken stock before adding boiled potatoes, sausages, ham and bacon; the dish is celebrated every September at the Fête de la Choucroute in Brienne-la-Château. Winter brings potée champenoise, also called “La Joute”, a hearty casserole of carrots, turnips, cabbage and potatoes enriched with smoked Ardennes ham, sausages and chicken. Overall, the cooking exemplifies the region’s cuisine du terroir and devotion to the French art de la table.

Meat specialities are a highlight for visitors. Andouillette de Troyes, recorded since the Middle Ages, is a coarse sausage made from pork intestines and stomach seasoned with onions and herbs and gently poached for five hours. Jambon de Reims is flavoured with nutmeg, shallots and parsley, cooked in stock, then served in cubes or as a terrine. The drier jambon sec des Ardennes is cured with salt, juniper berries and sugar for a more robust taste. Pieds de porc à la Sainte-Menehould, pig trotters simmered in an aromatic broth, bread-crumbed and browned, star at the annual Foire aux Pieds de Cochon. Boudin blanc de Rethel, a 17th-century white sausage of pork, eggs and milk, now appears with truffle or morel fillings. Humble dishes such as cacasse à cul nu—potatoes fricasséed in bacon-rubbed roux—reveal the region’s frugal traditions.

Local cheeses, condiments and sweets round off the gastronomic picture. Langres offers a pungent, washed-rind bite, while Chaource delivers a creamy, mould-ripened indulgence, both traditionally paired with a glass of bubbly. Brie from southern Champagne provides a milder option at the cheese board. Forests in Haute-Marne yield black truffles prized from September to March. Diners season dishes with Reims mustard, still produced by Maison Charbonneaux-Brabant, and Champagne-based vinegars. Sweet lovers seek out pain d’épices and the rose-tinted Biscuit de Reims. Chocolates shaped like corks, known as bouchons de Champagne, further celebrate the region’s emblematic drink. Marc de Champagne perfumes pâté champenoise—rabbit and pork baked in puff pastry—while local beekeepers supply fragrant honey for desserts.


Attractions

Départements are listed from North to South.


Département des Ardennes

Sedan
Sedan, Champagne-Ardenne
very good Historic Ardennes town dominated by Europe's largest fortified medieval castle, built in 1424. Former independent principality and major textile centre famous for its black cloth, Sedan offers imposing fortress walls, fascinating military history and charming old streets near the Belgian border.

Charleville-Mézières
Charleville-Mézières, Champagne-Ardenne
very good Capital of the French Ardennes on the River Meuse, combining baroque Charleville (founded 1606) with its magnificent Place Ducale and medieval Mézières with ancient ramparts. Birthplace of poet Arthur Rimbaud and home to the world-famous puppetry festival.
Givet
Givet, Champagne-Ardenne (© Uolir - Fotolia.com)
very good Charming border town on the Meuse River, dominated by the imposing Charlemont Fort. This historic Ardennes gem boasts narrow cobbled streets, medieval fortifications, and striking architecture, with Belgium just steps away. Classified as one of France's most beautiful detours.

Rethel
Rethel, Champagne-Ardenne
good Set admist the beautiful background of the Ardennes forest, tiny Rethel was the seat of a medieval county, then duchy. Known as Europe's boudin blanc capital, Rethel offers splendid countryside walks, and literary heritage linked to poets Verlaine and Rimbaud.

Département de la Marne

Reims
Reims, Champagne-Ardenne
must-see Reims, the Champagne capital, blends Gothic grandeur and Art Deco charm. Explore Notre-Dame Cathedral, site of royal coronations, then descend into chalk cellars for tastings at storied houses. Elegant boulevards, Roman remnants and vibrant dining make a refined city escape.
Châlons-en-Champagne
Châlons-en-Champagne, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by PMRMaeyaert - CC BY-SA 4.0)
very good Châlons-en-Champagne, affectionately known as 'Sparkling Venice', enchants visitors with its picturesque network of canals and the UNESCO World Heritage Notre-Dame-en-Vaux church. This historic champagne capital boasts stunning Gothic architecture and charming boat trips.

Other attractions

good Saint-Amand-sur-Fion
good Épernay

Département de l'Aube

Troyes
Troyes, Champagne-Ardenne (© DX - Fotolia.com)
outstanding Medieval Troyes, historic capital of Champagne, enchants visitors with its beautifully preserved half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, and magnificent Gothic churches. The charming old town, famously shaped like a champagne cork, boasts wine cellars and authentic local character.

Château de La Motte-Tilly
La Motte-Tilly Castle, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by Patrick - CC BY-SA 2.0)
very good Elegant 18th-century château of brick and sandstone built in 1754 for Louis XV's finance minister. Set in 60-hectare parkland on the Seine's banks near Nogent-sur-Seine, this perfectly preserved country residence features exquisite period interiors and remarkable formal gardens.
Les Riceys
Les Riceys, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by rene boulay - CC BY-SA 3.0)
very good Three historic villages united as one, Les Riceys boasts the unique distinction of producing three AOC wines including the legendary Rosé des Riceys once favoured by Louis XIV. The largest wine village in Champagne features exceptional heritage with numerous listed monuments.

Other attractions

good Atelier renoir in Essoyes
good Clairvaux Abbey
good Royal Champagne Glasswork & Crystal Museum in Bayel

Département de la Haute-Marne

Langres
Langres, Champagne-Ardenne
very good Perched on a limestone promontory, this ancient hilltop fortress boasts Europe's longest ramparts (3.5km) encircling medieval streets. Birthplace of philosopher Diderot, the town showcases 2,000 years of history from Roman foundations to Renaissance architecture, plus famous AOC cheese.

Chaumont Viaduct
Chaumont Viaduct, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by Хрюша - CC BY-SA 3.0)
good Magnificent 19th-century railway viaduct spanning 600 metres across the Suize valley with 50 soaring stone arches reaching 52 metres high. Built in just 15 months (1855-56) by 2,500 workers, it remains one of Europe's most remarkable engineering achievements of the era.
Bourmont
Bourmont, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by C DIMEY 5252 - CC BY 4.0)
very good Charming hilltop fortified town in Haute-Marne, awarded 'Petite Cité de Caractère' status. Perched on a rocky spur above the Meuse valley, it offers panoramic views from Notre-Dame collegiate church. Features remarkable gardens including Parc des Roches and tree-lined Promenade du Côna.

La Boisserie
Interior of La Boisserie in Colombey-les-Deux-Églises, Champagne-Ardenne (photo by Gzen92 - CC BY-SA 4.0)
good La Boisserie is the intimate family home where General Charles de Gaulle found solace and inspiration from 1934 until his death in 1970. Built around 1810, this charming ivy-clad stone residence sits amidst 2.5 hectares of peaceful parkland in the rural village of Colombey-les-Deux-Églises.


Eupedia's Rating System

Cities, towns, villages & historic buildings

  • very good : Local interest
  • very good : Moderately interesting
  • outstanding : Outstanding place
  • must-see : Must-see in the country
  • best in Europe : Top cities in Europe

Natural attractions

  • : Local interest
  • : Moderately interesting
  • : Highly recommended
  • : World-class natural attraction
  • ※ : UNESCO World Heritage site


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