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Introduction
Royal Tunbridge Wells (pop. 51,000) was founded in the early 17th century as a spa town around the Chalybeate Spring, said to cure the melancholy, the colic and have other health-giving properties. It was named after the nearby town of Tonbridge, which was spelled "Tunbridge" at the time. The prefix "Royal" was granted by King Edward VII in 1909 in recognition of its long history of royal patronage.
Tunbridge Wells has long been associated with the prim middle classes and upper classes. Novelist William Makepeace Thackeray and mathematician Thomas Bayes are two of the most famous people who took up residence there. References to the town in literature abound, and its atmosphere is perhaps best captured by David Lean's epic film Lawrence of Arabia, which closes with the words from Dryden as answer to King Feisal: "Me? Your Highness? - On the whole, I wish I'd stayed in Tunbridge Wells."
At the heart of the town is the historic colonnaded walkway known as the Pantiles, which runs adjacent to the original spring. The surrounding area is situated within the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, characterised by its rolling hills and ancient woodlands.
Interesting Facts about Royal Tunbridge Wells
- Royal Tunbridge Wells is one of only three towns in England to have been granted the prestigious "Royal" prefix, which was bestowed by King Edward VII in 1909 to celebrate the town's popularity with the royal family over the centuries.
- The town's famous chalybeate spring was discovered in 1606 by Lord North, who noticed the reddish-brown waters foaming from the ground whilst recovering from heavy drinking and merrymaking.
- The iron-rich spring water was believed to cure everything from yellow jaundice and liver deficiencies to scurvy, gonorrhoea, and even promised to make ladies "more fruitful".
- The Pantiles, the town's historic colonnaded walkway, derives its name from the large roofing tiles (pantiles) that once paved the area at the request of Queen Anne.
- Queen Henrietta Maria visited the springs in 1630 to recover after giving birth to the future Charles II, helping to establish the town's reputation as a royal retreat.
- The town became a fashionable resort in the mid-1700s under the guidance of Beau Nash, attracting visitors who wished to "take the waters" for their supposed medicinal properties.
- Royal Tunbridge Wells sits approximately 30 miles southeast of central London on the northern edge of the High Weald, close to the border with East Sussex.
- The town's architecture was significantly influenced by Decimus Burton, a renowned architect and town planner, with many of his buildings still in use today.
- The Tunbridge Wells and Rusthall Commons comprise 250 acres of woodland and heathland close to the town centre, providing extensive green space for residents and visitors.
- Despite its name suggesting multiple sources, "Wells" actually refers to the principal chalybeate spring in the Pantiles where visitors would traditionally take the waters.
- The town features a distinctive 5-metre-high steel Millennium Clock at the Fiveways area, designed by local sculptor Jon Mills to mark the Millennium celebrations.
- The chalybeate spring water contains so much iron that it stains everything orange, as evidenced by the distinctive colouring around the walls of the bowls at the spring.
History
The story of Royal Tunbridge Wells begins in 1606 with the discovery of a chalybeate spring by a nobleman, Lord North, who was hoping the country air would aid his failing health. After drinking the iron-rich water and feeling his health improve, he championed its healing properties to his affluent London friends. The spring's reputation grew, especially after a visit from Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of King Charles I, in 1630. This established the area as a spa retreat, leading to the construction of the first lodging houses in 1636. By 1664, the spring was enclosed by a stone wall, and the Church of King Charles the Martyr was completed in 1684, forming a focal point for the nascent town. The town developed across four main hills: Mount Ephraim, Mount Pleasant, Mount Sion, and the area known as the Wells.
During the 18th century, Tunbridge Wells blossomed into one of England's foremost fashionable resorts, rivalling Bath. The iconic colonnaded promenade, known as the Pantiles, was first paved in 1700. The town's social scene reached its zenith under the direction of the famous dandy Richard "Beau" Nash, who presided over the entertainments. It became a favoured destination for high society, attracting famous figures like the writer Samuel Johnson, actor David Garrick, and painter Sir Joshua Reynolds. Visitors enjoyed a range of diversions, including balls, gaming rooms, cricket matches, and horse racing on the Common. Early guidebooks also promoted the surrounding countryside for walks and rides, highlighting nearby country houses and attractions like High Rocks.
The town continued to expand rapidly throughout the 19th century. Between 1831 and 1841, its population grew from 5,929 to 8,302, making it the fastest-growing town in Kent. The arrival of the railway in 1846 made the journey from London much easier, taking only five hours by stagecoach, and attracted a new wave of permanent residents and retirees. During this era, the town became famous for producing Tunbridge Ware, intricate decorative wooden items made from veneered hardwoods. The town was designated a borough in 1889, and in 1909 King Edward VII granted it the 'Royal' prefix to honour its long history of distinguished and royal visitors, including his mother, Queen Victoria. After the Second World War, Royal Tunbridge Wells evolved into an important shopping and administrative hub.
Main Attractions
The town is divided in two main areas. The south is the older part and referred to as the "Village". It contains the spa itself as well as The Pantiles, formerly known as The Walks and the Royal Parade, which uses, quite uniquely, roofing tiles for paving.
The northern part of town, around the Victoria Place Shopping centre, is newer, and is principally a shopping district. It does nevertheless have few notable sights, like he Assembly Halls, the Trinity Theatre or else the Millenium Clock on Lime Hill Road.
The Pantiles
The Pantiles form the historic heart of Royal Tunbridge Wells, consisting of a Georgian colonnaded walkway that has remained largely unchanged since the 18th century. This pedestrianised area is lined with independent shops, cafés, and restaurants housed within period buildings. The Pantiles serve as the venue for regular outdoor markets and seasonal events throughout the year, maintaining their role as the social centre of the town's spa heritage.
Chalybeate Spring
The Chalybeate Spring represents the original reason for Royal Tunbridge Wells' development as a spa town, having been discovered in the early 17th century. Located on the Pantiles, this mineral-rich spring contains iron deposits that were believed to have medicinal properties. Historically, the water was served by attendants known as 'Dippers' who wore traditional costume, a practice that occasionally continues during heritage events.
Dunorlan Park
Dunorlan Park is a Grade II listed Victorian park that was landscaped by Richard Marnock in the 19th century. The park features a large boating lake at its centre, complemented by an ornamental fountain and a Victorian Grecian temple. Extensive lawns and formal gardens provide space for recreation, whilst facilities include a café, boat hire, children's play area, and marked walking paths. The park supports diverse wildlife and retains many of its original Victorian design features.
Calverley Grounds
Calverley Grounds occupy a central position in the town and were designed in the 19th century by architect Decimus Burton. The grounds feature landscaped lawns, ornamental flower beds, and tennis courts for public use. Throughout the year, the space hosts various events including food festivals and a seasonal winter ice rink. Visitors can access picnic areas and refreshment facilities within the grounds.
The Grove Park
The Grove Park is a historic woodland park that was established in the early 18th century. The park provides natural green space within the town boundaries, featuring children's playground equipment, grassy open areas, and surfaced paths suitable for walking. It remains popular with local residents for informal recreation and relaxation activities.
Grosvenor and Hilbert Park
Grosvenor and Hilbert Park is located north of the town centre and represents one of the larger public parks in Royal Tunbridge Wells. The park encompasses formal gardens, woodland areas, wildflower meadows, wetlands, and a community orchard. Recreational facilities include children's play areas, sports facilities, and nature trails. Part of the park is managed as a local nature reserve, supporting indigenous wildlife and plant species.
Spa Valley Railway
The Spa Valley Railway operates as a heritage steam and diesel railway that runs between Tunbridge Wells West and Eridge stations. The line includes intermediate stops and offers scenic rides through the surrounding countryside. The railway organises special events and themed days throughout the year, appealing particularly to families and railway enthusiasts.
High Rocks
High Rocks consist of natural sandstone rock formations located a short distance west of the town centre. The site features boardwalks, bridges, and marked trails that wind between the rock pillars, creating a unique walking experience. High Rocks also serves as a wedding venue and includes an on-site inn and pub for refreshments.
Tunbridge Wells Common
Tunbridge Wells Common provides natural open space with established paths, ponds, and wooded areas. The common remains accessible throughout the year for walking and general recreation, offering residents and visitors a natural environment within easy reach of the town centre.
Top Museums
The Amelia Scott
Located in the heart of Royal Tunbridge Wells, The Amelia Scott is the flagship cultural hub that brings together collections of art, local history, natural history, archaeology, and craft. Its engaging exhibitions trace the town’s evolution from its early days after the discovery of the spa waters in 1606, right through to its emergence as a Georgian hot-spot and its eventual transformation into a Victorian resort synonymous with refinement.
Highlights include:
- Displays of Georgian costumes and period artefacts, which vividly bring the past to life.
- Works by renowned artists such as Gainsborough and Reynolds.
- Tunbridge Ware collections, showcasing the intricate wooden mosaicware unique to the area.
- Temporary exhibition spaces dedicated to both contemporary and historical art.
- Interactive displays suitable for visitors of all ages, intertwined with the town’s modern library space.
- A welcoming courtyard café perfect for a post-visit refreshment.
Salomons Estate Museum
A short distance from the town centre, the Salomons Estate Museum is set within a beautiful Victorian mansion. This museum tells the fascinating story of the Salomons family, who played a significant role in the local community and beyond. The exhibits offer insight into:
- The heritage of the estate and its remarkable architecture.
- Scientific achievements linked to David Salomons, including his work in engineering and motoring.
- A collection of artefacts and personal memorabilia that reveal the lifestyle of the Victorian and Edwardian eras.
Cranbrook Museum
Though a little further afield, Cranbrook Museum is well worth a visit for those interested in the broader Wealden heritage. Housed in a charming Grade II listed building, this museum is dedicated to the rich rural history of the region. Expect to find:
- Displays on hop-picking, local agriculture, and rural crafts.
- Exhibits on the development of Cranbrook as a market town.
- Collections of photographs, implements, and artefacts that evoke village life in bygone times.
Art Galleries in Royal Tunbridge Wells
Alongside the main museums, Royal Tunbridge Wells is home to a number of independent art galleries, such as:
- Fairfax Gallery
- Beumee Contemporary Fine Art
- T.Wells Gallery
- Castle Fine Art
- Gray Webster Gallery
These galleries feature a dynamic mix of contemporary art, paintings, sculpture, and photography, frequently hosting temporary exhibitions and events in a variety of styles and mediums.
Local Cuisine
While Royal Tunbridge Wells in England might not boast a unique culinary tradition like some regions, its local food scene is deeply rooted in classic British fare and the abundance of local produce. Visitors can expect to find charming establishments serving up hearty dishes such as traditional Sunday roasts, complete with all the trimmings. Given its proximity to the Kent countryside, fresh, seasonal ingredients are a highlight, often incorporated into dishes. You’ll also find excellent bakeries offering quintessential British treats like scones with clotted cream and jam, and a variety of freshly baked pastries. The town's cafes and tearooms are perfect for experiencing an authentic afternoon tea, often featuring delicate sandwiches, cakes, and, of course, a selection of fine teas. For those seeking a more traditional pub experience, many establishments serve classic pub grub, often including fish and chips and various pies made with locally sourced meats.
Getting There & Around
By train, Royal Tunbridge Wells is conveniently located on the Southeastern mainline from London Charing Cross to Hastings, with direct services running at least every half hour and calling at London Waterloo East, London Bridge, Sevenoaks, Hildenborough and Tonbridge - the journey takes approximately 50-57 minutes from central London. There are also connecting services available from Gatwick Airport via London Bridge, and visitors from East Kent can travel via Tonbridge with one change, whilst those seeking a more scenic route can board the heritage Spa Valley Railway vintage steam or diesel trains from Eridge.
By coach, there is a regular commuter coach service operating from London to Royal Tunbridge Wells, with additional routes available from various locations including Gatwick Airport (via Fastway Bus No. 20 and the 291 Metrobus), Brighton (Regency 29 service), Hastings (1066 bus via Battle and Wadhurst), and Eastbourne (number 51 service via Hailsham, Heathfield and Mayfield).
By car, Royal Tunbridge Wells is situated where the A26 and A21 main roads meet, both running north to south between London and the South Coast, with convenient links to the M25 and M20 motorways within a 20-minute drive, making it easily accessible from the capital approximately 30 miles away.