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Eupedia England Guide


Chartwell (© David Garry | iStockphoto.com)

Introduction

Chartwell was the home of Sir Winston Churchill from 1924 until his death in 1965. It was bought up by some of Churchill's friends in 1966 and given to the National Trust and his now one of their most visited properties.

The Victorian red-brick house, although large is pretty commonplace, but what Churchill liked about it are the superb views it commands on the Weald and South Downs of Kent and Sussex.

The main reason to visit Chartwell is for his illustrious last occupant. The residence was left as much as Churchill left it, with books, pictures, maps and personal mementoes as well as his famous cigars, portraits of family and friends, trophies, gifts and a visitors' book filled with distinguished names.

Winston created the ponds in the terraced gardens, and his wife arranged the rose garden and the Golden Rose Walk. When he was not gardening, Churchill also spent time painting. A collection of sketches and watercolour paintings by the man himself in the garden studio.


Interesting Facts about Chartwell

  • Chartwell served as Sir Winston Churchill's beloved country home for over forty years, from 1922 until shortly before his death in January 1965.
  • Churchill purchased the property in September 1922 without consulting his wife Clementine, who was initially horrified by both the dilapidated state and the expense of the Victorian mansion.
  • The estate's name derives from the Chart Well, a natural spring north of the house, with "Chart" being an Old English word meaning rough ground.
  • Henry VIII is reputed to have stayed at Chartwell during his courtship of Anne Boleyn at nearby Hever Castle.
  • The oldest walls of the house contain Tudor brickwork dating from the 16th or possibly 17th century, making it a structure with centuries of history.
  • Churchill famously declared that "a day away from Chartwell was a day wasted," demonstrating his deep attachment to the property.
  • The views over the Weald of Kent from Chartwell's garden front were described by Churchill as "the most beautiful and charming" he had ever seen, and were the determining factor in his decision to purchase the house.
  • During his time at Chartwell, Churchill personally built walls and constructed lakes with his own hands, demonstrating his passion for manual labour and landscaping.
  • The house was largely abandoned during the Second World War due to its vulnerable position near German-occupied France, with the lakes covered in brushwood to make it less identifiable from the air.
  • Churchill kept goldfish in ornate ponds at Chartwell and took great pleasure in feeding them during his visits, even during wartime.
  • When Churchill faced financial difficulties in 1946, a group of friends led by Lord Camrose raised funds to help, ultimately resulting in the National Trust purchasing the property whilst allowing the Churchills to remain for life.
  • Chartwell features a preserved painting studio where Churchill created artwork as a therapeutic outlet during stressful periods, with many of his unfinished works still displayed.
  • The estate encompasses 80 acres of grounds, including woodlands with walking trails and a two-storey treehouse for visitors to explore.
  • Black swans still grace Chartwell's lakes today, descendants of the original swans that Churchill introduced to the estate.
  • Churchill thoughtfully designed brick garden walls with gaps at the base specifically to allow his beloved swans to walk through.
  • Notable visitors to Chartwell included T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) and the painter Walter Sickert, alongside numerous politicians and scholars.
  • The house now operates as one of the National Trust's most popular attractions, welcoming 232,000 visitors in 2016 alone.
  • Chartwell is designated as a Grade I listed building, recognising its exceptional historical and architectural importance.

History

Chartwell's Ancient Origins and Early Development

The origins of Chartwell reach back to the 14th century, when in 1382 the property was known as Well-street and owned by William-at-Well. The estate takes its name from the Chart Well, a natural spring to the north of the current house, with "Chart" being an Old English word for rough ground. The site had been built upon by at least the 16th century, and Henry VIII was reputed to have stayed in the house during his courtship of Anne Boleyn at nearby Hever Castle. Elements of the Tudor house remain visible today, with 16th-century (or possibly 17th-century) brickwork still apparent in some external walls. During the 17th and 18th centuries, the house served as a farmhouse and changed ownership frequently before being auctioned at Cheapside in September 1836, advertised as "a suitable abode for a genteel family". In 1848, it was purchased by John Campbell Colquhoun, a former MP from a family of Scottish landowners, lawyers and politicians.

The Churchill Era and Architectural Transformation

Winston Churchill first encountered Chartwell in July 1921, just before the house was to be auctioned. He purchased the property in September 1922 for £5,000, without consulting his wife Clementine, who was initially horrified by both the acquisition and its dilapidated condition. The Victorian country house was then "riddled with dry rot" and described as "Victorian architecture at its least attractive, a ponderous red-brick country mansion of tile-hung gables and poky oriel windows". Between 1922 and 1924, Churchill commissioned the society architect Philip Tilden to rebuild and extend the house extensively, spending upwards of £30,000 on renovations and improvements. Churchill was captivated by the property's stunning views over the Weald of Kent, which he called "the most beautiful and charming" he had ever seen, and this vista was the determining factor in his decision to purchase the house. During the 1930s, when Churchill was out of political office, Chartwell became the centre of his world, serving as his base for writing books and speeches, entertaining political allies, and pursuing his hobbies of painting and landscape gardening.

National Trust Stewardship and Public Access

Financial constraints forced Churchill to consider selling Chartwell in 1946, whereupon a consortium of his friends, led by Lord Camrose, raised £55,000 to enable the National Trust to purchase the property for £43,800. The arrangement allowed the Churchills to retain a life tenancy for an annual rent of £350 plus rates, meaning they could continue living there until their deaths. During the Second World War, Chartwell was largely unused due to its vulnerable position near German-occupied France, with the lakes covered in brushwood to make the house less identifiable from the air. Following Churchill's death in January 1965, Lady Churchill relinquished her rights to the property, and the National Trust opened Chartwell to the public in summer 1966 to immense popularity, with queues outside the house even making newspaper headlines. Today, Chartwell is a Grade I listed building recognised for its historical significance rather than architectural merit, and has become one of the National Trust's most popular properties, welcoming 232,000 visitors in 2016, the fiftieth anniversary of its public opening.


Description

The Magnificent Gardens and Estate Grounds

The Formal Gardens

Chartwell

Chartwell's 30 acres of meticulously maintained gardens represent a masterpiece of 20th-century landscape design, where formal structure gives way to naturalistic planting that feels both sophisticated and welcoming.

The Rose Garden, Clementine Churchill's particular passion, unfolds in a carefully planned succession of bloom from late spring through autumn. Here, heritage varieties of roses—David Austin English roses, climbing varieties, and old-fashioned shrub roses—are underplanted with complementary perennials. Catmint, lamb's ear, and lavender create silver-grey pools between the rose beds, whilst clematis scrambles through pergolas and over arches, extending the flowering season well into September.

The Butterfly Border exemplifies the garden's wildlife-friendly approach. This 50-metre herbaceous border pulses with colour from June through October, planted with nectar-rich species specifically chosen to attract butterflies and beneficial insects. Buddleia, verbena bonariensis, sedum, and native wildflowers create a tapestry of purple, pink, and white, whilst the careful succession planting ensures continuous blooms. On warm summer afternoons, the border becomes alive with painted ladies, red admirals, and peacock butterflies.

The Productive Gardens

Churchill's Walled Garden represents a perfect marriage of utility and beauty, where the pragmatic meets the aesthetic. The brick walls, some built by Churchill himself during his "wilderness years" in the 1930s, create a series of microclimates that support an impressive range of crops.

The kitchen garden section produces seasonal vegetables following traditional crop rotation principles—broad beans and runner beans trained up hazel wigwams, rows of heritage carrots and parsnips, whilst glasshouses shelter more tender crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, and exotic fruit. The cutting garden provides flowers for the house throughout the season, with particular emphasis on Churchill's beloved sweet peas, which climb up specially constructed frameworks.

Espalier fruit trees—apples, pears, and plums—are trained against the warm south-facing walls, their branches carefully pruned to maximise both fruit production and decorative effect. Ancient fig trees spread their branches in the sunniest corners, whilst soft fruit bushes—gooseberries, blackcurrants, and raspberries—occupy the shadier sections.

The Water Features and Natural Areas

The estate's water gardens create a series of interconnected pools and streams that bring both movement and reflection to the landscape. The main lake, originally created as part of Churchill's ambitious landscaping projects, supports wildlife whilst providing the perfect setting for peaceful contemplation. Golden orfe glide beneath the surface, their movements creating ripples that catch the light, whilst the surrounding bog garden supports moisture-loving plants like primula, astilbe, and the dramatic architectural leaves of gunnera.

The 40 acres of woodland and parkland beyond the formal gardens offer endless opportunities for exploration. Ancient oak and beech trees create a cathedral-like canopy, beneath which seasonal displays unfold—carpets of bluebells in May, wild garlic in the shadier corners, and autumn fungi in October and November. Hidden throughout these woods are Churchill's various building projects: the famous tree house where he would retreat to paint and write, the remains of wartime air raid shelters, and the distinctive brick walls that marked his various construction enthusiasms.

The House: Intimate Grandeur

Reception Rooms

Chartwell's interior spaces retain the lived-in comfort that made it such a refuge for the Churchill family, yet every room bears witness to a life of extraordinary achievement and international connections.

The Drawing Room serves as the social heart of the house, arranged much as it would have been for the family's frequent house parties. Original furniture—comfortable sofas and armchairs upholstered in faded chintz, occasional tables bearing family photographs and personal mementos—creates an atmosphere of relaxed elegance. The room's treasures include the famous Monet painting of the Thames, a gift that reflects Churchill's own passion for painting, and the Lalique crystal cockerel, presented by French admirers. Tall windows frame views across the gardens to the Weald beyond, whilst French doors open directly onto the terrace, blurring the boundaries between indoor and outdoor living.

The Sitting Room showcases Churchill's intellectual appetites, its built-in bookcases lined with volumes that reveal the breadth of his interests—military history, biography, literature, and his own extensive writings. The room is arranged for both solitary reading and intimate conversation, with reading chairs positioned to catch the best natural light and a writing desk where much of Churchill's correspondence was conducted. Personal touches abound: his reading glasses left carelessly on a side table, favourite books marked with bookmarks still in place, and the comfortable disorder that speaks of a room in constant use.

Private Quarters

Lady Churchill's Bedroom provides insight into Clementine's refined tastes and the couple's complementary but distinct personalities. The room retains its original decoration—soft florals, family photographs in silver frames, and personal items that speak of daily routines continued over decades. A collection of porcelain figures reflects her interest in decorative arts, whilst the arrangement of furniture suggests someone who valued both privacy and the ability to oversee household activities.

Churchill's Study remains exactly as he left it, a workspace that facilitated both his writing career and his political responsibilities. The large desk bears the tools of his various trades—fountain pens, dictating equipment, and the distinctive green blotting paper he preferred. Maps still mark strategic locations from various campaigns, whilst the walls display awards, honorary degrees, and gifts from world leaders. The room's organization reveals a methodical mind: reference books within easy reach, correspondence sorted in designated trays, and the standing desk where he preferred to write his speeches.

The Museum Spaces

Recent additions to the house include purpose-built galleries that display the extraordinary range of gifts, awards, and personal items that accumulated over Churchill's long career. These spaces are designed with museum-standard climate control and lighting, ensuring the preservation of delicate items whilst making them accessible to visitors.

The Medal Room displays Churchill's extensive collection of military decorations, honorary degrees, and civilian awards, each piece representing a different phase of his remarkable career. Interactive displays provide context for major events, whilst audio excerpts from speeches allow visitors to hear Churchill's distinctive voice describing key moments in 20th-century history.

The Gift Collection reveals the international scope of Churchill's reputation, with presentations from heads of state, military units, and admirers from around the world. Items range from the practical—walking sticks and cigar cases—to the ceremonial—swords, silver plate, and elaborate presentations from Commonwealth nations.

The Painting Studio

Churchill's garden studio represents perhaps the most personal space at Chartwell, where his passion for painting found full expression. The building, specially designed to maximise natural light, contains easels still bearing unfinished canvases, paint boxes with colours mixed for specific pictures, and the simple wooden palette he preferred for outdoor work.

The studio's collection includes examples from every period of Churchill's painting career, from early tentative landscapes to the confident Mediterranean scenes of his later years. His preference for bold colours and decisive brushwork is evident throughout, as is his particular gift for capturing the effects of light and weather. Seasonal displays rotate the pictures to show his development as an artist and his response to different locations and seasons.

The Broader Estate Experience

Walking Trails and Natural Discovery

Chartwell's extensive grounds are networked with carefully planned walking routes that reveal different aspects of the estate's character and history. The main circular walk takes visitors through formal gardens, alongside the lake, up into the woodland, and back via the kitchen gardens—a journey that encompasses virtually every type of English landscape within a compact area.

The Woodland Trail leads to some of the estate's hidden treasures: the wartime bomb crater now colonised by native plants, the remains of Churchill's various building projects, and viewpoints that reveal the strategic importance of the site's elevated position. Benches positioned at key points invite lingering, whilst interpretive panels provide historical context and identify notable plants and wildlife.

The Chartwell Landscape Walk extends beyond the immediate gardens to explore the wider estate, including working farmland, ancient hedgerows, and traditional kentish field patterns. This longer route provides context for Churchill's love of the countryside and his understanding of rural England's importance to national identity.


Getting There

By train, Chartwell is not directly accessible by rail, but the nearest stations are Sevenoaks (6 miles), Oxted (6 miles), and Edenbridge (4 miles). Sevenoaks station offers regular fast train services from London Charing Cross, Waterloo East, and London Bridge, with taxis available outside the station for the final journey. Alternatively, take a train from London Victoria to Bromley South, then catch the 246 bus to Westerham (requiring a 2-mile signposted walk to Chartwell), or travel to Oxted station and take the 236 bus to Mapleton Road.

By coach, the most convenient option is the 246 bus route, which runs from Bromley South to Westerham on weekdays, but extends directly to Chartwell on Sundays and Bank Holidays when the house is open. The 236 bus service operates between East Grinstead and Oxted, stopping at Mapleton Road, approximately one mile from Chartwell.

By car, Chartwell is accessible from the M25 via junction 6 (anti-clockwise) or junction 5 (clockwise), following the A25 towards Westerham and the brown National Trust signs. From Westerham, turn onto the B2026/Hosey Hill, then fork left onto Mapleton Road where Chartwell is located a short distance down on the left.


Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Chartwell, the former home of Sir Winston Churchill, is during the spring and summer months, from March through to October. Late spring is particularly delightful, as the gardens burst into colour with daffodils, camellias, and magnolias. Summer offers the chance to enjoy family-friendly trails and outdoor events in the extensive grounds. To make the most of your visit and avoid the largest crowds, consider arriving early, especially during busy weekends and school holidays, as tickets for the house can sell out. A visit can easily fill several hours, allowing time to explore the historic house, the painting studio, and the magnificent gardens with their views over the Weald of Kent.





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