Friuli-Venezia Giulia Travel Guide

Introduction

Tucked in the north-east corner of Italy, along the border of Austria and Slovenia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is one of five autonomous regions of Italy. It is composed of the historical-geographical region of Friuli and a small portion of the historical region of Venezia Giulia (known in English also as Julian March), each with its own distinct history, traditions and identity. Two thirds of the region is occupied by mountains and hills.

In the 6th century, the Alpine Slavs, ancestors of present-day Slovenes, settled the eastern areas of the region. They settled in the easternmost mountainous areas of Friuli, known as the Friulian Slavia, as well as the area around Gorizia. In the 12th and 13th century, they also moved closer to Trieste. Slovenia, including Trieste and Gorizia became part of the Austrian Empire, and were only reunited with Italy in 1954.

The Friulan language is spoken by approximately 60% of the population, especially in rural areas. In larger cities like Trieste, Udine and Gorizia, the Venetian language is more common.

Cuisine

After over one and a half century of Austrian rule, it comes as little surprise that Friulian cuisine should exhibit marked Central European and Slavic influences. Forget tomato-based dishes and think instead of goulash, sauerkraut, sausages, potatoes and turnips. You will even find typical dishes from the Balkans, like ćevapčići (a sort of kebab).

Friulian culinary specialties include jota (bean and barley soup with sauerkraut), musèt con la brovada (cotechino sausage served with turnips soured with pomace), orzotto (a dish similar to risotto, but made with pearl barley instead of rice), porcina (boiled pork and sausages served with sauerkraut and mustard), strucolo (sweet or savoury strudel), and gubana (strudel filled with minced apple, raisins, nuts, and grappa brandy).

Friuli-Venezia Giulia is renowned for its wines, particularly white ones, which rank among Italy's best. There are 11 Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and 3 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), the highest quality assurance label for Italian wines. The three DOCG are Colli Orientali del Friuli, Ramandolo, and Rosazzo, all located in the province of Udine. The region's most famous wine is probably Picolit, a sweet white wine of the Colli Orientali del Friuli, which gained a worldwide reputation in the royal courts of Europe in the 18th century. 60% of the region's wines are DOC(G), a percentage only surpassed by Trentino-South Tyrol, and contrasting sharply with the mere 2 or 3% in southern Italian regions (except Abruzzo and Sardinia, which have 17% and 15%).

The region is also famous for its prosciutto of San Daniele, prosciutto of Sauris, and Montasio cheese.

Attractions

Trieste

Trieste, a captivating port city in northeastern Italy, boasts a rich history dating back to 177 BCE when it came under Roman control, with Julius Caesar establishing it as a colony called Tergeste. The city features remarkable Roman ruins, including a well-preserved 2nd-century CE theatre that once accommodated 6,000 spectators. Today, Trieste stands as a fascinating blend of Latin, Slavic, and Germanic cultures, housing the world's largest tourist-accessible karst cave, the Grotta Gigante, which spans an impressive 280 metres in length. The city's intellectual legacy is equally noteworthy, with James Joyce writing parts of his masterpiece 'Ulysses' here, and it currently maintains the highest percentage of researchers per capita in Europe. As a significant coffee trading hub, Trieste is home to numerous historic cafés and the renowned Illy coffee company. The city's unique character is further enhanced by its stunning 19th-century Miramare Castle overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, and its remarkable Roman archaeological sites, including ancient villas with wellness facilities that suggest the area was a popular leisure destination even in Roman times.

Aquileia ※

Aquileia was founded in 181 BCE as a Roman military outpost and grew to become one of the Roman Empire's most significant cities, boasting an impressive population of over 100,000 inhabitants during its peak under Emperor Augustus (27 BCE - 14 CE). The city's remarkably preserved Roman river port, featuring a 48-metre-wide riverbed, stands as one of the finest examples of Roman port architecture in existence. Beyond its military significance, Aquileia was renowned throughout the Roman world for its exquisite amber craftsmanship and served as the terminus of the Baltic amber trade route. Today, visitors can explore extensive archaeological treasures, including Roman streets, forums, and residential buildings, while also savouring local Friulian cuisine such as herring with vegetables and scallops au gratin. Between September and November, the special event 'A tavola con gli antichi romani' offers guests the unique opportunity to taste authentic 2,000-year-old Roman recipes.

Friulian Dolomites Regional Park

The Friulian Dolomites Natural Park, established in 1996, is the largest protected area in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, offering a pristine wilderness experience where golden eagles soar above turquoise rivers and dramatic limestone peaks. This easternmost section of the Dolomites uniquely maintains its wild character, with no cable cars to its summits, making it a paradise for hiking and mountaineering enthusiasts. The park harbours fascinating prehistoric sites, including the Pradis Caves where Neanderthals and early Homo sapiens once sought shelter. The region's rich cultural heritage extends to the nearby town of Spilimbergo, home to a renowned mosaic school continuing ancient Roman and Byzantine traditions. Local delicacies include frico (a crispy cheese and potato dish) and speck from the historic village of Sauris, which was recognised by the UN World Tourism Organization in 2022. The park's diverse wildlife includes sixteen golden eagles, chamois, alpine ibex, and marmots, while its dramatic landscapes encompass three distinct areas: the Meduna Valley, Tagliamento Valley, and Valcellina.

Udine

Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps in northeastern Italy, Udine is a charming city of 100,000 inhabitants that serves as the cultural capital of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. This elegant university town showcases stunning Venetian-Gothic architecture, particularly in its crown jewel, Piazza della Libertà, which features the Loggia del Lionello and a clock tower reminiscent of Venice's Piazza San Marco. Originally a Roman settlement possibly called Utina, the city flourished as a major medieval trading centre under various rulers including the Romans, Lombards, and Venetians, before finally uniting with Italy in 1866. The city is particularly renowned for its artistic heritage, housing works by the Venetian Baroque painter Tiepolo, and hosts the largest European festival of East Asian Cinema. The surrounding province stretches from golden beaches at Lignano to snow-capped Alpine peaks, and is famous for its exceptional cuisine, including San Daniele prosciutto, Montasio cheese, and distinctive Friulian wines such as Pignolo and Picolit. The area also boasts significant archaeological importance, with the nearby ancient Roman city of Aquileia being one of northern Italy's major archaeological sites.

Cividale del Friuli ※

Founded by Julius Caesar in 50 BCE as Forum Iulii, Cividale del Friuli is a charming town in northeastern Italy that gave its name to the entire Friuli region. This UNESCO World Heritage site sits picturesquely along the Natisone River, where the iconic Devil's Bridge offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The town's most fascinating period began in 568 CE when the Lombards made it their first Italian capital, leaving behind remarkable treasures including exquisite goldsmith work and the mysterious Celtic Hypogeum, an underground complex whose original purpose remains debated. Visitors can savour local delicacies like gubana, a rich pastry filled with dried fruits, and sample excellent regional wines whilst wandering through the medieval centre's narrow cobblestone streets. The town's cultural legacy is also notable as the birthplace of the 19th-century actress Adelaide Ristori, and its National Archaeological Museum houses the world's second-largest collection of Lombard gold coins.

Pordenone

Pordenone originated as a Roman river port called Portus Naonis along an ancient road connecting Aquileia to northern Italy. The city flourished during the Middle Ages as a significant trade hub and experienced a cultural renaissance that produced notable artists, including the renowned Renaissance painter Il Pordenone. The city is surrounded by the picturesque Dolomite Mountains and features abundant waterways, including the characteristic phenomenon of water resurgence in the Po-Venetian Valley. The local cuisine reflects a fascinating blend of Italian and Austrian traditions, with specialities such as frico, a delicious cheese and potato pancake, and the celebrated prosciutto di San Daniele. The city's rich cultural scene is evident in its well-preserved Gothic and Renaissance buildings adorned with frescoes, and it hosts significant cultural events throughout the year.