Esterházy Palace

Introduction

Esterházy Palace in Fertőd, often referred to as the "Hungarian Versailles," stands as Hungary's most beautiful baroque palace and the third largest baroque palace in Europe. This architectural masterpiece features 126 rooms surrounded by outbuildings and a 200-hectare park, making it the largest palace complex in Hungary. Built primarily between 1762 and 1790 under Prince Miklós Esterházy "The Extravagant," the palace became one of the most important cultural centres of 18th-century Hungary. The palace is particularly notable for its association with composer Joseph Haydn, who lived and worked here from 1766 to 1790, writing the majority of his symphonies for the Prince's orchestra. Visitors can explore the breathtaking frescoes, sculptures and stucco work throughout the palace, including the impressive Banquet Room with its ceiling painting of Apollo in his Chariot, and enjoy the surrounding baroque gardens featuring the reconstructed Margit Cziráky Rose Garden and the restored Marionette Theatre.

Interesting Facts about Esterházy Palace

• Esterházy Palace is one of the most significant cultural centres in Hungary, renowned for its breathtaking Baroque and Rococo architecture.
• The palace was built between 1762 and 1784, primarily under the direction of Prince Miklós Esterházy, who was known for his grand musical productions and luxurious festivities.
• Joseph Haydn, a celebrated composer, served as the court composer and lived at the palace from 1766 to 1790, composing many symphonies for the Prince's orchestra.
• The Haydnsaal, originally a multi-purpose festival and banquet room, is now considered one of the most beautiful and acoustically perfect concert halls in the world.
• Eszterháza boasts 126 rooms, including a Banquet Room with a ceiling painting of Apollo in his Chariot.
• The palace's library holds almost 22,000 volumes and is adorned with the letter 'E', standing for the Esterházy family surname.
• During the Napoleonic Wars, King Ferenc I signed the Treaty of Schönbrunn at the Esterházy Palace.
• Eszterháza once had two opera houses, including a marionette theatre, where Haydn conducted over a hundred performances per year.
• The palace's façade features a row of attached busts of Hungarian military leaders, with the Palatines Nicholas and Paul Esterházy in the centre.
• The surrounding park is a masterpiece of Baroque garden design, featuring temples, fountains, and a unique rose garden created in 1908.
• Esterházy Palace has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001, adding to its cultural and environmental significance.

History

The original manor house, which forms the core of the current palace, was constructed in 1721 by Anton Erhard Martinelli. However, it was Prince Nikolaus Esterházy who transformed this hunting lodge into a grand Baroque and Rococo palace between 1764 and 1784, based on his own designs and with the assistance of architect Melchior Hefele.

The palace's expansion was an ambitious project that cost a staggering 13 million Austro-Hungarian gulden, reflecting the immense wealth of the Esterházy family. The result was a magnificent structure boasting 126 rooms, many of which were adorned with genuine gold. The palace complex includes a hermitage, temples dedicated to Diana and Venus, a Chinese dance house, and a puppet theatre. Surrounding the palace are nearly 620 acres of meticulously designed French-style gardens, creating a truly awe-inspiring estate.

Throughout its history, the Esterházy Palace has been a centre of cultural and musical excellence. Perhaps most notably, it was home to Joseph Haydn, who served as the resident composer and Kapellmeister from 1761. The palace suffered damage during World War II but underwent restoration in 1958 and 1959. Today, visitors can explore the magnificent interiors, including the Sala Terrena with its frescoed ceiling by Josef Ignaz Mildorfer, and the banquet hall featuring Johann Basilius Grundmann's fresco of Apollo on the Chariots of the Sun.

Description

The Palace Exterior

As you approach the palace, you'll be greeted by an impressive façade featuring a three-storey central block with eleven bays, the three central bays projecting slightly and rising to an additional storey. The ground floor displays elegant banding, while the upper floors are articulated by giant pilasters. The main façade is adorned with pilasters, tympanum motifs, military trophies and the Esterházy coat of arms, all executed with remarkable attention to detail.

A striking feature of the main front is a row of attached busts of Hungarian military leaders at mezzanine level, with the Palatines Nicholas and Paul Esterházy positioned centrally. These sculptures not only serve as decoration but also as a testament to the family's military prowess and national significance. The palace is enclosed by two wings that form a large cour d'honneur (court of honour), with curved inner angles that create a sense of embracing grandeur. An ornate Rococo wrought-iron gate adorned with vases closes off the courtyard, at the centre of which stands a charming fountain featuring a cherub with a dolphin, symbolising the family's connection to water and prosperity.

The exterior colour scheme—a distinctive combination of ochre yellow walls with white decorative elements—is characteristic of Habsburg imperial architecture and creates a warm, inviting appearance that glows magnificently in the sunlight. The roof is adorned with decorative urns and statues that create an impressive silhouette against the sky.

The Palace Interior

The palace boasts an astonishing 126 rooms, each meticulously decorated to reflect the wealth, taste and cultural sophistication of its princely owners. Upon entering, you'll discover a wealth of artistic treasures throughout the building, from intricate stuccowork to priceless paintings and furnishings.

Ground Floor

The Sala Terrena on the ground floor is a grotto-like space with a ceiling adorned with frescoes by Josef Ignaz Mildorfer, depicting dancing angels carrying flower garlands that form the Esterházy family monogram. The walls feature artificial rock formations and niches containing classical statues, creating an atmosphere that blends natural and artistic elements in typical Baroque fashion.

The Chinese Cabinet showcases the 18th-century European fascination with Oriental aesthetics. The walls are covered with hand-painted Chinese-inspired wallpaper featuring exotic birds, flowers and landscapes. Lacquered furniture with gilt chinoiserie decorations complements the overall design, creating a space that exemplifies the period's appreciation for Eastern artistry.

The Haydnsaal, originally a multi-purpose festival and banquet hall, is considered one of the most beautiful and acoustically perfect concert halls in the world. This magnificent space extends over three storeys and features unique frescoes from the 17th century, attributed to painter Carpoforo Tencalla. The splendid murals and ceiling paintings represent scenes from "Metamorphoses" by the Roman poet Apuleius, with the central panels depicting the marriage of Cupid and Psyche in the presence of the Olympic Gods. The hall's name honours Joseph Haydn, who served as the court composer for nearly 30 years and premiered many of his works in this very room.

First Floor (Piano Nobile)

Ascending the grand staircase, with its ornate balustrade and ceiling frescoes depicting allegorical scenes, you'll reach the piano nobile, where the most impressive state rooms are located.

The Banquet Hall on the first floor showcases a ceiling fresco by Johann Basilius Grundmann depicting Apollo on the Chariots of the Sun, complemented by sculptures of the Four Seasons by Johann Joseph Rössler. The walls are lined with mirrors in gilded frames that reflect the light from the crystal chandeliers, creating a dazzling effect during evening entertainments.

The Blue Salon, named for its silk wall coverings in a delicate shade of azure, features exquisite Rococo furniture with gilt wood frames and damask upholstery. The ceiling is decorated with stucco medallions containing mythological scenes, while the parquet floor displays intricate geometric patterns crafted from various types of wood.

The Imperial Suite, reserved for visits by Habsburg monarchs, is particularly opulent. The bedroom contains a magnificent canopied bed with embroidered hangings, while the adjacent dressing room and study are furnished with pieces of exceptional craftsmanship. The walls are hung with tapestries depicting scenes from classical mythology.

Several rooms on the first floor still retain their original furniture, including statuesque stuccoes and wood panelling in various salons. The Main Dining Hall features vedute (landscape paintings) on the supraports, while the Library houses 22,000 volumes in its original bookcases, with titles ranging from scientific treatises to literary classics in multiple languages, reflecting the family's intellectual interests. Don't miss the Dutch tiles in the Count's bathroom and the elegant furniture in the Countess's private room.

Second Floor

The second floor houses the Picture Gallery, containing an impressive collection of family portraits spanning generations of Esterházys, as well as works by notable European masters. The long gallery, with its barrel-vaulted ceiling and abundant natural light, provides an ideal setting for appreciating these artistic treasures.

The Music Room contains a collection of historical instruments, including a fortepiano that may have been played by Haydn himself. The walls are decorated with portraits of composers and musicians who were associated with the Esterházy court, highlighting the family's significant patronage of the arts.

The Gardens and Grounds

The palace is surrounded by five distinct garden types, each offering its own unique charm and botanical interest: French Garden, English Garden (landscape garden), Rose Garden, Lavender and Herb Garden, and the Lés-forest.

The French Garden

The extensive formal gardens, designed in the French manner, extend from the garden façade, which projects six bays toward the grounds. The garden and park complex were originally organised around three main avenues, featuring a broiderie parterre (large parterre) decorated with fountains and sculptures, boskes, and a garden for wild animals (Lustgarten).

The main axis of the French garden stretches for nearly a kilometre, creating a dramatic perspective that emphasises the palace's grandeur. Meticulously trimmed hedges form geometric patterns, while carefully placed topiaries add vertical elements to the design. Seasonal flower beds bring vibrant colour to the formal layout, with tulips in spring giving way to summer annuals and autumn plantings.

Within the garden, you'll find the Fountain Nymph sitting on a cliff, a work by sculptor Antal Schweiger from 1785. Water features are integral to the design, with symmetrical fountains sending jets of water into the air, their basins adorned with mythological figures. Other garden decorations include a grotto and a Classical statue of a woman holding a shield decorated with a high-relief depiction of Autumn, a copy of Thorwaldsen's work.

The English Garden

In contrast to the formal French garden, the English landscape garden offers a more naturalistic experience. Winding paths lead through groves of mature trees, opening onto carefully composed vistas. A serpentine lake reflects the sky and surrounding vegetation, while rustic bridges and classical follies provide focal points and resting places.

The Temple of Diana, a neoclassical pavilion dedicated to the goddess of the hunt, stands on a small rise, offering views across the landscape. Nearby, a romantic grotto provides a cool retreat on warm summer days, its interior walls encrusted with shells and semi-precious stones.

The Rose Garden

The Rose Garden showcases over 50 varieties of roses, from historical cultivars that would have been familiar to the Esterházy family to modern hybrids. The beds are arranged in a geometric pattern around a central fountain, with pergolas supporting climbing varieties. The fragrance is particularly enchanting in the early morning or evening, when the air is still.

The Lavender and Herb Garden

This practical yet beautiful garden contains medicinal and culinary herbs that would have supplied the palace kitchens and apothecary. Lavender borders create structure and provide a soothing purple haze when in bloom. Informative plaques identify the various plants and their traditional uses, offering insight into historical gardening practices.

The Lés-forest

Beyond the formal gardens lies the Lés-forest, a managed woodland that once served as hunting grounds for the Esterházy family. Ancient oak and beech trees create a cathedral-like canopy, while clearings support diverse wildflowers in season. A network of paths allows visitors to explore this more natural setting, which provides habitat for various wildlife species.

Auxiliary Buildings

Beyond the main palace, the estate grounds include an opera house, a marionette theatre, stables, and detached servant quarters, each worthy of exploration in its own right.

The Opera House, a jewel-box theatre with seating for 400 spectators, features elaborate trompe l'oeil decoration creating the illusion of architectural elements and sculpture. The stage machinery, much of it original, allowed for spectacular scene changes and special effects that delighted 18th-century audiences.

The Marionette Theatre reflects Prince Nikolaus Esterházy's passion for puppet performances. The intimate space is decorated with frescoes depicting scenes from popular operas and plays of the period. The original puppets, with their intricate costumes and expressive faces, are displayed in glass cases.

The Small Palace, located to the west of the main building, features a double-flight of stairs on the central axis of its west façade—an impressive feature of Late Baroque architecture. This building served as accommodation for important guests and features its own elegant reception rooms and private apartments.

Opposite the palace stands the Princely Stables and Main Guard House, consisting of two separate, symmetrical wings with fronts shaped by an array of mighty Tuscan columns. The east wing once housed stables for riding and draught horses, as well as the collection of princely carriages, while the right wing accommodated the household guard of the princely grenadiers. The architecture of these utilitarian buildings reflects the same attention to aesthetic detail as the main palace, creating a harmonious ensemble.

The Orangery provided winter protection for citrus trees and exotic plants that adorned the gardens during warmer months. Its south-facing windows maximised light exposure, while stoves maintained appropriate temperatures. Today, it houses a collection of Mediterranean plants and continues to serve its original purpose.

Seasonal Highlights

The palace and its grounds offer different experiences throughout the year. In spring, the gardens burst into life with bulbs and blossoms, while summer brings lush foliage and vibrant flower displays. Autumn transforms the landscape with golden and russet tones, particularly beautiful in the English garden and forest areas. Even in winter, the formal structure of the gardens retains its appeal, especially when outlined by frost or a dusting of snow.

Getting There

To reach Esterházy Palace in Fertőd, Hungary, visitors have several options. From Budapest, one can take a train to Fertőszéplak-Fertőd station, which requires at least one change, or alternatively, travel by train to Kapuvár and then catch a bus to Fertőd. For those driving, there is paid parking available opposite the castle at the corner of Pomogyi Street and Joseph Haydn Street, as well as a free car park further down Pomogyi Street. Upon arrival, the palace is a short 600-metre walk from the car park. Visitors using public transport should alight at the "Fertőd, gránátosház" bus stop. Once at the palace, guided tours are the primary means of exploring the grand Rococo edifice, with English tours typically available at 1:00 PM daily during peak seasons (June to August) and on weekends and holidays during other months.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit the magnificent Esterházy Palace is during the early morning hours between 9:00 am and 10:00 am when the palace is less crowded, allowing you to fully appreciate its Baroque splendour. From October 2024 through March 2025, the palace is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, with the ticket office closing at 4:30 pm. Summer visitors might wish to time their visit to coincide with the International Haydn Festival, which celebrates the renowned composer who lived at the palace for over 30 years. The palace offers guided tours that depart every 30 minutes during opening hours, with the last tour starting one hour before closing. For the most enchanting experience, consider visiting in spring or early summer when the Margit Cziráky Rose Garden is in full bloom, adding another layer of beauty to this stunning 'Hungarian Versailles'.